Day 1 (Day 4 of Japan Trip) - Train Osaka - Kii-Tanabe (Bus) - Kawayu Onsen
We took the early train from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe, visibly quite excited with our Kumano Walk <<Although it would only be a 3D2N easy-level highlight walk>> 😊
As instructed, we left our luggage at the Tanabe Visitor Centre for their transfer to our hotel. We had lunch before boarding the bus for Kawayu Onsen.
The bus journey took about two hours. The bus stopped at a rest stop for toilet break after about an hour <<thoughtful indeed 😇>>.
Kawayu Onsen
Kawayu onsen is a geological thermal river, with hot spring water bubbled to the surface of the Oto River. Hotels, ryokans and other lodgings are on the north side of the river, while forested mountainside are on the left.
There were groups of family and visitors swimming and playing by the river. The landscape though seemingly ordinary was picture-perfect pretty.
We checked into Fujiya hotel, located along the Ota River overlooking the Kawayu Onsen Spring. It is a traditional ryokan with indoor and outdoor onsen, and our package included both dinner and breakfast.
After checking in, we headed for the river and the forested mountains <<we had planned to do our own walk 😎>>. We clambered up the trail in the forest for a short while, and decided unanimously that we should instead go to the river onsen. 😜
I had another nice hot bath in the hotel, followed by a multi-courses dinner.
Evening walk
After our scumptious multi-courses dinner <<and much over-eating 😬>>, we did a walk along the river as the sennin-buro would be lit up with candles.
It was cold and people sat by the river, soaking their feet into the water.
With the lightings reflecting off the river, and the rising misty steam , the landscape was indeed mystical and rather magical.
Day 2 Kawayu Onsen - Kit Katsuura
[Kumano Walk ~7km : Hosshinmon-oji - Kumano Hongu Taisha (Bus) - Shingu - Kii-Katsuura]
Our guide met us at the hotel. Instead of taking the bus (as in the itinerary) to the starting point, the hotel's van drove us to the starting point of the walk. 😊
Hosshinmon-Oji
It marks the outermost entrance to the Kumano Hongu Taisha's scared precincts, and is known as the "gate of awakening of the aspiration to enlightenment".
Kumano Kodo is one of the two pilgrimage World Heritage Sites with a history stretching back for thousands of years.
The trails are well-marked; with a marker at every 500 metre interval; there are information boards providing the trail and bus information and also non-kumano-kodo path marker.
We passed by (Hoshinmon settlement) of farmland, clusters of houses, signage, post-box and vending machines . The guide provided information about the history, well-known landmarks and the area geology. <<We also asked a variety of questions related to the trails, Japan and whatever came to my mind😉>>.
A kumano stamp booklet has been given to us at the onset of our walk. There are stamp 'station' to stamp the booklet. I looked forward to doing the stamping. I also enjoyed looking into the products put up for sales by the locals along the trails.
Then, the walk entered the forest. The weather was cool and sunny, and the landscape was varied and interesting <<indeed perfect for walking 😍>>.
There are different Jizo statues (statue with a red scarf) along Kumano, and the guide would explain the origin and significance whenever we saw one.
We stopped for lunch in one of the rest area. After which we climbed up to a lookout point for a breathtaking view of undulating rolling hills and valleys.
The walk continued into the wooded area with more elevation.
We made a short detour to the Oyunohara View Point for an unblocked vantage of the village and Hongu Taisha. It was a riveting sight.
We descended from the mountain, and onto a road.
Hongu Taisha
We arrived at our destination of the day - Kumano Hongu Taisha. The shrine is one of the three main shrines of the Kumano faith.
The Oyunohara Gate is the largest Torii shrine gate in the world standing at 33.9 meters, and 42 meters wide. The insignia of Kumano Kodo is the three-legged sacred raven, Yata-garasu.
We arrived at Kii-Katsuura, the pick-up point for the hotel transport <<There was no Kii-Katsuura's hotels available when we made our booking 😔>>
The hotel is located on the Ugui peninsula, 60 metre above a rocky coastlineby by the sea in the Yoshino-Kumano National Park (part of the National Park Resort network).
Our luggage was already in our room when we checked in. The buffet dinner and breakfast comprised a wide variety of Japanese cusine. The onsen with a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean was unbeatable.
Day3 [Hotel - Kii-Katsuura(bus) - Damonzaki (Kumano Kodo walk) - Nachi Waterfall(bus) - Kii-Katsurra (Train) - Wakayama]
We took the hotel bus to Kii-Katsuura to deposit our luggage in the locker, and then took a bus to Damonzaki.
Kumano Walk : Damonzaki - Nachi Waterfall
The walk started from Daimon-zaki trekking up a slope lined with centuries-old trees, and an ancient stone staircase from the bottom of the valley to the base of the Kumono Nachi Taishi. It was a rather long steep climb, and we were walking at our own pace. <<Reminscing: J waved and signaled for me to walk ahead, similar 'signal' to our walk up Namsan 😯. Didn't she train before the walk? 😉 >>
We arrived at the top of the slope, and walked another series of cobblestone stairs and a path to the Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine , a scared Kumano Sanzan site is thought to have been established in the early 5th century.
We then walked to Nachisan Seiganto-Ji. At last, the Nachisan Seiganto-Ji and the renowned Nachi Falls came into view. The sight was beautiful and magnificent.
The waterfall at 133 metre is the tallest in Japan and considered the abode of the deity or kami. 
We made our way to the foot of the waterfall.
We rested by the lookout point, taking in the magnificent view of the falls.
At the bus-stop, J placed her walking sticks into the bin to mark the end of our walk. 😁
We took a bus to the train station for the Wakayama-bound train. We checked into the hotel, had dinner, followed by snack, and then the complimentary hotel supper.
Wakayama (Day 6&7)
Momijidani Teien Garden
It was within walking distance from the hotel.
The blend of shades of yellow, orange and red autumn leaves offered a striking visual display yet exuded a sense of serenity in the beautiful garden.
There was a pavilion by the moat, and its reflection and also autumn leaves' in the pond was exceptionally tranquil yet delightful.
Wakayama Castle
It was built in 1585 and its tower offers great views of the whole town.
Although we had limited time in Wakayama, we were able to visit the popular tourist spots, and sampled popular and recommended local food.
We also had a relaxing massage at the train station before we left for Osaka.
Lodging : Hotel Granvia Wakayama
Reflection
I liked and enjoyed the walk in Kumano Kodo. The 3 days 2 nights itinerary is a good 'introduction' to the history, area and community. I look forward to doing more walks in Kumano Kodo again. 😊
Kumano Kodo is mountainous and massive, much less touristy and the mountainous lifestyle is still quite intact. There are limited lodging, facilities and amenities catering to walkers/tourists. Thus, it is necessary to plan the trip in advance (preferable 6 months).
More information
Extracts from Kumano Community 3 Days 2 nights model itinerary
Day 3: Damon-zaka to Nachi Waterfalls route
Booking with Kumano Travel
😊