Day 12 - Elsehul and King Haakon Bay
The ship sailed northward in the night towards South Georgia's Bird Island. 
Elsehul
The ship anchored off Else Hul and the sea was relatively calm. A zodiac cruise was planned and there seemed to be a rather muted response to it.<< maybe, it's the disappointment of no Grytviken visit or the virus/flu or another zodiac cruise?!...>>
I was also quite mixed about joining the zodiac cruise. <Maybe I should just lounge around the bistro to secure a table for later since more people are using it now, and how different can the landscape be? >
I decided at the last minute to go for the zodiac cruising and hurriedly made my way to the mudroom without my phone. << I regretted not bringing my phone and I queued to do another round of the zodiac cruise >>
I decided at the last minute to go for the zodiac cruising and hurriedly made my way to the mudroom without my phone. << I regretted not bringing my phone and I queued to do another round of the zodiac cruise >>
There was more than the usual number of birds around this area. As the zodiac approached Else Hul, more seals were teeming around the water. The landscape, though bland in itself, was bustling with activity!
It was also the first time I saw the macaroni penguins! Although they were perched high on the cliffs, their distinctive yellow crest could be seen from the zodiac.
Seals and penguins were by the beach, on the tussac grass or perched on the cliff. When the zodiac stopped cruising, the seals swam by out of curiosity while the penguins swam by as they hunted for food, quite indifferent to our presence. 
The massive green/brownish giant sea kelp (southern bull kelp) were in abundance in the water, and they moved rhythmically with the current. The zodiac driver had to maneuver carefully so that the engine's blades did not get entangled by them.
It was a significant cruise as I became aware of how accommodating and friendly the island's inhabitants had been despite intrusion. I should be more appreciative and be privileged to have the chance to interact with the wildlife on these islands, and was glad I did not lose this opportunity for a lazy morning on the cruise instead.
King Haakon Bay
King Haakon Bay is best known as the landing place of Shackleton after he and five of his crew members sailed 18 days from Elephant Island to seek help for the rest of his crew marooned on the Elephant island. 
The red group cruised the bay before the land excursion. The fjord with the glacier, the small waterfall stream and the surrounding panorama was magnificent. However, I was impatient to go ashore to walk and see the penguins (maybe not the seals... 😧)
The red group cruised the bay before the land excursion. The fjord with the glacier, the small waterfall stream and the surrounding panorama was magnificent. However, I was impatient to go ashore to walk and see the penguins (maybe not the seals... 😧)
The zodiac landed on the pebbly bay, and the walking trails were marked for both side of the landing sites.
I walked along the trail towards the setting sun. Although there were many seals hidden amongst the tussac grass (which put me on high alert), I was delighted and moved by the serenity and the beauty of the vista.
Almost any angle presented a stunning view of the snowy mountains beyond, a stream running through the land, the seals/penguins and the setting sun - it seemed almost postcard perfect whichever way I looked.
Following the trail, I turned backed and walked towards the beach and the glacier. The landscape was spectacular, the starkness of the snow-capped mountains ahead against the vegetation-filled land I was walking on made for a magical sight. The mountain ranges beyond seemed to beckon one towards it. 
Along the way, the penguins and the elephant seals added entertainment to the trail 😀 while the seals remained a source of trepidation 😯.
Long gaintatic sea kelp lined the beach all the way to the end of the walk. Despite the cold, I really enjoyed the walk. Two EC teams were picking up plastic debris that had been washed ashore along the beach... 😬...
Almost any angle presented a stunning view of the snowy mountains beyond, a stream running through the land, the seals/penguins and the setting sun - it seemed almost postcard perfect whichever way I looked.Following the trail, I turned backed and walked towards the beach and the glacier. The landscape was spectacular, the starkness of the snow-capped mountains ahead against the vegetation-filled land I was walking on made for a magical sight. The mountain ranges beyond seemed to beckon one towards it. Along the way, the penguins and the elephant seals added entertainment to the trail 😀 while the seals remained a source of trepidation 😯.
Long gaintatic sea kelp lined the beach all the way to the end of the walk. Despite the cold, I really enjoyed the walk. Two EC teams were picking up plastic debris that had been washed ashore along the beach... 😬...
I queued to take the zodiac back to the ship.
I went to the deck to watch the remaining zodiacs making their way back to the ship. provided for a thoughtful moment as you're made to realize how modern equipment and technology now allow us to explore this place with ease while less than 100 years ago, Shackleton had to sail for a treacherous 16 days from Elephant Island to King Haakon Bay, on top of a 3-day crossing over the mountains to seek help. <<this excursion would be the last time we set foot on land for this cruise.>>
<<Argentina has closed its border with US and Europe>>
The ship set sail for Salisbury Plain after leaving King Haakon Bay.
The sun was out and there was a strong wind, blowing at about 15 knots. We could only do zodiac cruising. From the zodiac, I could see the army of penguins stretching from the beach all the way up to the hillside, and also scattered on the huge expanse of the grassland and beach.
As the zodiac cruised nearer to the shore, I was always thrilled to see the swimming king penguins. You see them in a different light when they go from the slightly clumsy wingless birds on land to elegant swimmers in the sea. 
Then the EC team chanced upon a cove/bay behind the rocky outcrop and ventured forth to check it out. As the zodiac cruised towards the cove, seals and king penguins were teeming around, diving and swimming beside the zodiac. It was as if we had arrived during their busy peak hour in the water!
Almost everyone was dumbstruck by the sheer abundance of seals and king penguins, and we got very busy snapping away with our cameras. It was indeed an exceptional and unexpected encounter!
The morning cruise showed us the visible mass of king penguins on the plains from afar. Combined with the zodiac outing which brought us up close, it put into perspective just how vibrant the wildlife was here. The whole experience will definitely be indelibly imprinted in my memory!
<<Unknown to us then, this would became the last excursion for the entire cruise>>
The service/hospitality crew were already getting ready a bbq lunch on the deck.
<<They were really marvelous in their effort to make the trip comfortable and pleasant. >>
Although I spent only four days in South Georgia, I understood why the crew were more 'energized' in South Georgia and deemed it as the 'main course' of the trip. It was so beautiful and full of vitality.
Amidst the unease about the impending coronavirus, we were requested to meet at the lecture theatre after lunch. It seemed that the global virus situation had gotten more serious, and would impact our cruise.
Wikipedia: Salisbury Plain, South Georgia
Wikipedia : King Haakon Bay
Day 13: Salisbury Plain
It is a broad coastal plain on the north coast of South Georgia, and known for being the second largest breeding ground for King penguins.The sun was out and there was a strong wind, blowing at about 15 knots. We could only do zodiac cruising. From the zodiac, I could see the army of penguins stretching from the beach all the way up to the hillside, and also scattered on the huge expanse of the grassland and beach.As the zodiac cruised nearer to the shore, I was always thrilled to see the swimming king penguins. You see them in a different light when they go from the slightly clumsy wingless birds on land to elegant swimmers in the sea. Then the EC team chanced upon a cove/bay behind the rocky outcrop and ventured forth to check it out. As the zodiac cruised towards the cove, seals and king penguins were teeming around, diving and swimming beside the zodiac. It was as if we had arrived during their busy peak hour in the water!Almost everyone was dumbstruck by the sheer abundance of seals and king penguins, and we got very busy snapping away with our cameras. It was indeed an exceptional and unexpected encounter!
The morning cruise showed us the visible mass of king penguins on the plains from afar. Combined with the zodiac outing which brought us up close, it put into perspective just how vibrant the wildlife was here. The whole experience will definitely be indelibly imprinted in my memory!
<<Unknown to us then, this would became the last excursion for the entire cruise>>
The service/hospitality crew were already getting ready a bbq lunch on the deck.
<<They were really marvelous in their effort to make the trip comfortable and pleasant. >>
Although I spent only four days in South Georgia, I understood why the crew were more 'energized' in South Georgia and deemed it as the 'main course' of the trip. It was so beautiful and full of vitality.
Amidst the unease about the impending coronavirus, we were requested to meet at the lecture theatre after lunch. It seemed that the global virus situation had gotten more serious, and would impact our cruise.
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Some Links:Wikipedia: Salisbury Plain, South Georgia
Wikipedia : King Haakon Bay